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How to choose · Home batteries

How to size a home battery

Last updated 25 October 2026 · 2 sources listed · Reading time about 3 minutes

Short answer

Size on two separate numbers: energy capacity, which sets how long the battery can supply your evening and overnight load, and power output, which sets how many appliances it can run at once. Study your own interval data, your solar surplus, and whether you want backup during outages. Oversizing leaves capacity idle; undersizing leaves expensive grid use at peak times.

Who this is for: A household with or planning solar, or on a time-varying tariff, deciding how much storage capacity and output power to buy.

What to evaluate

  1. Evening and overnight load

    Capacity should relate to what you actually draw after solar fades, not to the largest model on offer.

    How to check: Use smart meter or monitoring data to total consumption between sunset and morning on typical days.

  2. Solar surplus available to store

    A battery only fills as far as your panels produce beyond daytime demand.

    How to check: Estimate average daily export in each season from your data or an installer's model.

  3. Continuous and peak power rating

    A battery with plenty of capacity but low power cannot start a heat pump or run an oven alongside other loads.

    How to check: List the largest simultaneous loads and compare with the battery's continuous output.

  4. Usable versus nominal capacity

    Depth-of-discharge limits mean not all stated capacity is available.

    How to check: Read the datasheet for usable energy and the conditions it applies under.

  5. Backup requirement

    Whole-home backup needs different wiring and sizing from simple bill shifting.

    How to check: Decide which circuits must stay live in an outage and confirm the system can island safely.

  6. Future changes in demand

    A vehicle charger, heat pump or extra panels can change the right size.

    How to check: Choose a modular system that can expand if you expect these additions.

Comparison

Sizing approaches compared
ApproachGood whenWatch out for
Cover evening load onlySolar is present and tariffs are flatLittle help in poor-sun winter weeks
Cover overnight and peak shiftingYou are on a time-based tariffCost grows with each increment of capacity
Essential-loads backupOutages occur and some circuits matter mostRequires a separate backup panel
Modular start smallBudget or demand is uncertainMixing batteries of different ages can limit performance

Decision worksheet

Rate up to three options against this guide’s own criteria. It runs in your browser and saves only on this device. It is a thinking aid, not a recommendation.

1. Have you checked each criterion?

0 of 6 criteria checked.

2. Compare options (0 = fails or unknown, 3 = meets it well)

Criterion
Evening and overnight load
Solar surplus available to store
Continuous and peak power rating
Usable versus nominal capacity
Backup requirement
Future changes in demand
Total (max 18)000

Questions to ask before you commit

  • What is the usable capacity as well as the nominal figure?
  • What are the continuous and peak power ratings?
  • Can the battery start the largest motor loads I own?
  • Is it AC-coupled or DC-coupled, and what does that mean for my existing inverter?
  • How does it behave in a grid outage, and is that automatic?
  • Can I add modules later and are they compatible?
  • What are the warranty terms in terms of cycles, years and retained capacity?
  • How is software control handled, and is it dependent on a cloud service?

Typical trade-offs

Larger capacity

Upside
More resilience and overnight cover
Downside
Higher cost and parts of capacity may rarely cycle

Smaller capacity

Upside
Lower outlay and quicker cycling
Downside
Grid imports still happen in dark winter weeks

Higher power rating

Upside
Runs more appliances at once in backup
Downside
Costlier hardware you may not need

Common mistakes

  • Sizing from a household average rather than from your own interval data.
  • Confusing kilowatts with kilowatt-hours and buying power when capacity was needed.
  • Planning whole-home backup without checking that the battery can handle starting currents.
  • Assuming stored energy will last through a multi-day outage.
  • Buying before adding solar or an electric vehicle that would change the right size.

Related questions

What is the difference between capacity and power?

Capacity, measured in kilowatt-hours, is the energy the battery holds, like the size of a fuel tank. Power, measured in kilowatts, is how fast it can deliver or absorb energy, like the width of the pipe. A large tank with a narrow pipe cannot run many appliances at once. Check both in datasheets, along with the continuous rating, not just the brief peak figure.

Do I need a battery if I have no solar?

A battery can still shift grid energy from cheap periods to expensive ones on a time-varying tariff, and can provide backup. Without solar, the value depends entirely on the tariff gap and the rules in your country. Ask suppliers for modelling using your real data, and check the regulator's guidance on grid-charging and export.

How long will a battery power my home in an outage?

It depends on stored energy and which loads are connected. A fridge, lights and router draw little and can run a long time. Electric heating, cooking and air conditioning drain a battery fast. Decide which circuits are essential and ask the installer to estimate runtime for that set, with and without solar recharging.

Can I add capacity later?

Some systems are modular, but mixing old and new units may be restricted because of differences in age, chemistry or firmware. Ask the manufacturer about expansion policy and whether additions share warranty terms. If you expect demand to grow, choose an expandable design from the start.

Sources and further reading

These pages were reachable when we last checked. They informed definitions and rules referred to above; they do not endorse this guide. Where rules differ by country, check the authority for your location.

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Lithium iron phosphate or nickel-based: which battery chemistry for a home?

Two chemistries dominate home storage. Lithium iron phosphate tends to offer long cycle life, thermal stability and no reliance on cobalt, at the cost of lower energy density. Nickel-manganese-cobalt cells pack more energy into less space and weight but have stricter thermal management needs. For fixed installations where space is available, stability and cycle warranty usually matter more than density.

Suitability · Home batteries

When a home battery suits a household, and when it does not

A battery suits homes with a large gap between cheap and expensive electricity periods, high evening use after solar fades, reliable need for backup, or limited export value for surplus solar. It suits poorly where the tariff is flat, usage is low, export is rewarded generously, or the household might move soon. Rules on grid charging and incentives vary by country, so confirm with your energy agency.

Requirements · Home batteries

Where and how a home battery can be installed safely

Safe installation depends on location rules, certified equipment, qualified electricians, correct isolation and labelling, and notification to the network operator. Many jurisdictions restrict siting in habitable rooms or on escape routes and require clearances from openings. Requirements differ by country and by local authority, so confirm with your electrical safety regulator before choosing a location.

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How to choose a home electric vehicle charger

Choose by power rating matched to your supply and car, cable and connector type, smart features such as scheduling and load balancing, safety protection built in or required alongside, and installation context. A faster charger than your car or supply can use is wasted. Check that the unit is certified in your market and that your electrician can confirm capacity at the consumer unit.

Alternatives · EV charging at home

Choosing an electricity tariff for charging an electric car at home

Options include a standard flat tariff, a two-rate day and night tariff, a dedicated EV tariff with a cheap overnight window, and dynamic wholesale-linked pricing. Fit depends on how flexible your charging is, how much else you use at night, and whether the rest of the household pays more in peak hours. Rates and rules vary, so model with your own usage and read your regulator's guidance.

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Reading energy labels before replacing a major appliance

Energy labels summarise a product's consumption under standard test conditions and let you compare similar products. Check the rating class, the annual energy figure, capacity, programme used for testing and extra data such as noise and water use. Label systems differ by region and are periodically rescaled, so compare only products rated under the same scheme, and match capacity to household size.

Requirements · EV charging at home

Installing an EV charger in an apartment, rental or shared parking

You will need permission from the owner, landlord or building body, a way to power the charger from your own meter where possible, and a safe cable route. Shared car parks may require load management across many bays. Rights to request installation differ by country and jurisdiction, so check your housing or energy agency and read your lease before ordering equipment.

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